Cambodia - Touring Angkor Archaeological Park Guide.

Sightseeing the archaeological sites around Angkor including Angkor Thom, Angkor Wat - also the many other fantastic temples and palaces to be found in this part of Cambodia.

The temples and palaces that have been discovered and reclaimed from the jungle and forests at Angkor Archaeological Park which is located near to Siem Reap in Cambodia are truly amazing. The world famous huge temples at Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple and Ta Prohm are just as impressive as the Egyptian temples and tombs which can be seen at Luxor and Karnak - and that takes some doing!. Although these temples are probably the ones most visitors have heard of and want to visit there are many other temples and palaces within or close to Angkor Archaeological Park including the Roluos Group and the Banteay Srei. The Park itself is around 400 square kilometres and just to see the sites within it does really need several days - if travelling further afield to see Roluos etc then at least 3 days are needed.

Most visitors to Angkor stay at Siem Reap which is located only a few kilometres away from the entrance to the Park - Siem Reap has all the hotels, facilities and transport links necessary to support the several million tourists who visit the area each year.

Angkor Entrance Fees. The ticket office is around 5km outside of Siem Reap - there are a variety of options from a day ticket at USD20, three day pass at USD40 (this can be used on any 3 days within a week) and a seven day pass which costs USD60 and can be used within a month. It is worth bearing in mind that these ticket conditions seem to change so check before buying. You no longer need to take a passport size photo with you as your photo is now taken as part of the ticket purchase. Tickets can be purchased using USD, Euro or Riel but you cannot use a credit card.
Important. Tickets are always checked at the major temple sites so remember to take your ticket with you - your driver will/should anyway check you have a ticket before you start out each day.

Transport around Angkor. As mentioned the area is huge and there is no realistic possibility of walking to the various sites - cycling is an option but the few people we did see on bikes seemed to be struggling - not least because of the temperature and the high humidity. There are organised coach trips of course but these seem to rush people about from place to place and if you enjoy picking out how long you want to look at things then these can be a disappointment. Hiring a car is another option but this is of course very expensive. The best way is to hire a licensed tuk-tuk - if you are staying for say 3 days then if the driver is ok the first day retain him for all of your sightseeing. He will be almost certainly very accommodating on what YOU want to do and will let you change itinerary and so on without any argument. Also these tuk-tuk drivers know of various lesser visited temples and sites and will probably suggest ones to visit that you may have missed.
Drinks etc. Everywhere you go you will find plenty of opportunity to buy drinks etc. - the going rate for a can of drink or a small bottle of water was USD1 for two drinks - as you can imagine the vendors will try hard to get much more than this but by simply starting to walk away you get the correct price. Since many hotels have fridges in their rooms perhaps consider freezing 3 or 4 small bottles of water or fruit juice each evening and take these frozen with you the next day and top them up as necessary - cold water to drink all day long.
What to wear. Firstly having a rimmed hat is quite important - some of the more exposed sites are like frying pans. For the same reason sleeved tops are best and underfoot the surfaces are often either sandy or quite rutted so flip flops are not a good idea. Finally of course take lots of sun-cream.

Our itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Angkor Wat**, Phnom Bakheng, Prasat Krajan, Banteay Kdei and Ta Phnom. (Tuk-tuk cost USD10).
Day 2: Roluos Group (12 km away), Angkor Thom. (Tuk-tuk cost USD10)
Day 3: Banteay Srei (30km away), Preah Neak Pean, Preah Khan, Ta Som and East Mebon (Tuk-tuk cost USD20).

Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is located around 6kms from Siem Reap. The temple is unusual in that it is orientated to the West so although many tour groups arrive in the morning to visit the best time - **certainly from a "taking Photos" point of view - is to visit Angkor Wat during mid to late afternoon because of the Sun. (Facing west towards the setting sun was a symbol of death). The parking area outside of the temple is quite substantial and there are many stalls where you can buy (do haggle your price) all sorts of drinks and some food.

Angkor Wat is the single largest religious monument in the world - the name perhaps says it all as it means "The City which is a Temple". Angkor Wat was constructed in the 12th century by Suryavarman II and originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu - the Protector of Creation. However the four entrances to the central sanctuary have images of Buddha - which shows the change from Hinduism to Buddishm. The layout is of a five towered temple which is shaped like a lotus bud and represents Mount Meru - the mythical abode of the gods and centre of the Universe. The temple's outer walls represent the edge of the world and the moat represents the cosmic ocean.

Angkor Wat is surrounded by a huge moat and is entered by a causeway to reach the thick outside walls. Once through the main entrance you then get the full view of the massive towers. There are five towers on three levels - on the top level sits the grand central shrine. Before reaching the entrance to the main temple complex another raised causeway is crossed - this has balustrades which are carved with nagas (serpents) which guard each side. Set in large open grounds there are two library buildings one on each side and just in front of the temple complex there are large (but at the time of our visit dry) lakes. The huge complex is surrounded with galleries which contain very good Bas releifs showing the King and his warriors - also the temple contains over 2000 carvings of apsaros (dancing girls). The central sanctuary is reached by very steep steps but it's worth the climb as there are quite a few carvings to look at.

Phnom Bakheng. The Hindu Temple of Phnom Bakheng takes a little effort to get too as it sits on a low 67 metre high hill so involves a 10 or so minute stroll up a track - this may not seem that much of a climb but is actually quite hard going in the heat and humidity especially if you have already been out all day.

Unlike many of Angkor's sites there are no facilities for buying drinks etc. at the top. The temple is a very popular tourist destination for tourists wishing to watch the sunset - especially with views over nearbye Angkor Wat. The photo bottom far right shows the remains of wide steps cut into the hillside - these were the original way up to the site and are not walkable. Phnom Bakheng is a Temple Mountain style of architecture often used on Khmer religious buildings and originally had 109 Towers. Phnom Bakheng was built in the late 9th Century by Yasovarman I who dedicated it to the Hindu God Shiva and was constructed in pyramid form with six tiers (it pre-dates Angkor Wat by around 200 years).

The very top has five sanctuaries which are built from sandstone. When we visited the Temple in March 2010 there was a considerable amount of renovation work being performed so quite a lot of scaffolding around but you can still easily be impressed by it's design and size. There are several lots of steps leading up to the top terrace all of which are fairly fragile, very steep and extremely narrow in depth.

Prasat Kravan. One of the smallest Temples in the area Prasat Kravan is dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu and was built in the early 10th Century by Harshavarman I and consists of five brick towers. Inside there are some excellent engravings which represent Vishnu and Lakshmi.

Banteay Kdei.
Often missed out by tourists and almost certainly most of the tour groups Banteay Kdei (Citadel of the Cells) is a small pleasant Temple which should be visited if possible - not too difficult really since its very close to the much visited Ta Prohm Monastery.


If you have sufficient time then an idea is to be dropped off at Banteay Kdei's western gate and to get your transport to wait for you at the Ta Prohm car park. You can then wander through the temple and at the far end (Eastern Gate) you come out opposite Srah Srang Lake (Royal Lake). Turn left and walk along the road to the crossroads - turn left and follow the excellent outer walls of Banteay Kdei - where you will find several closed gates which feature some really good stone faces (see photos). At the next road junction turn right and shortly reach the car park and entrance to Ta Prohm.

Ta Prohm.
Ta Prohm - Ancestor of Brahma - was originally a Mahayana Buddhist Monastery and built in the Bayon style during the reign of King Jayavarman VII. A very wealthy Monastery in silks, diamonds and pearls, Ta Prohm was a huge complex which once owned and was supported by 3000 villages, had 80,000 attendants, 18 High Priests and around 600 Temple dancers.

When you visit Ta Prohm there is a quite mysterious feel about the place - much of the dense forest and jungle has been cleared away but quite of a few of the temple buildings have been left with the roots of huge banyan trees growing through and around the structures. Not all parts of the site are reachable because of various collapses and also you do find yourself walking through narrow almost walled alleys which are often rubble strewn - good idea to have something reasonable on your feet when visiting Ta Phohm.

The authorities have however built wooden walkways within the main parts of the monastery which due to the huge numbers of visitors is probably necessary but these walkways do mess up some "classic" photo shots. As with quite a few of the Temples and sites a fairly long, hot and dusty walk is necessary before reaching either of the two still accessible Monastery entrances.

Angkor Park - The Roluos Group This group of three main Khmer Temples are around 13kms from Siem Reap. Located on the site of Hariharalaya (the first Khmer Capital) the Roluos Group are named after the small town of Roluos and are the oldest monuments in the area.

Lolei Temple.
Founded by Yasovarman I Lolei Temple is dedicated to Shiva. It consists of 4 central brick towers built on a terrace all of which are in a tumbledown state but there are still some really good carvings to look at. Adjacent to the temple is a modern Theravada Buddhist monastery.

Preah Ko. (or the Sacred Bull).
This sandstone Hindu Temple is dedicated to Shiva and was built by King Indravarman I. It has 2 rows of 3 brick towers each sat on a platform in front of which are three statues which represent Nandi (in Hindu mythology Nandi the white bull was Shiva's gatekeeper). Facing eastwards the central tower is the highest of the three and is dedicated to Jayavarman II who was the founder of the Khmer Empire. One of the main features at Preah Ko are the well preserved carvings on the door lintels which show three-headed nagas ridden by horsemen.

Bakong. Constructed of sandstone on an artificial mound around 881 (therefore pre-dating Angkor Thom) Bakong is the largest temple within the Roluos Group and was King Indravarman 1's official state temple. Surrounded by a moat and reached by a causeway which is guarded by Nagas the Temple rises in fives stages - the first three of which are enhanced by stone elephants around the edges.
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The top stage has a square central sanctuary - this has four levels and a a lotus shaped tower in the centre. The entire Temple is surrounded by eight huge brick towers all of which have nicely carved decorations.

Angkor Thom. (or Great City). Angkor Thom was built by Jayavarman VII (1181-1220) and once supported nearly 1 million inhabitants. It was constructed within 8 metre high walls each side of which are 3 kilometres long - and is encircled by an outer moat which is 100 metres wide. There are 5 gateways each entered by a causeway over the moat - the South Gate is easily the most impressive. The South Gate's causeway is lined and guarded by 108 large figures, 54 Gods on the left and 54 Demons on the right - the Gate itself has four huge Faces facing in the cardinal direction. Angkor Thom is a huge site and from the South Gate your driver will drop you off in front of the Bayon and then go off to park at the nearbye main parking area - there are plenty of locals waiting to provide drinks and you can even get food there.

The Bayon is built on 3 levels to represent a temple-mountain and has gallery bas-reliefs which show every day life both domestic and historical - the reliefs stretch for a distance of 1.2kms. The Third Level had 54 Gothic Towers which were decorated with 216 huge stone faces - the faces are of Avalokiteshvara (the Bodhisattva of Infinite Compassion).

The Terrace of the Elephants. The Elephant Terrace was used by King Jayavarman VII to watch the return of his victorious army and for ceremonial parades - built on the terrace were a variety of wooden platforms which have long disappeared. The Terrace is around 300 metres long and features carvings of life-size elephants and garuda (mythical birds) on the retaining wall.
Leper King Terrace. The Terrace of the Leper King is part of the Royal Square - it features a replica statue of the Hindu God Yama, the God of Death. The inner wall features some really good carvings of figures of the underworld, nagas, warriors and celestial figures.


North and South Khleang. These two buildings are situated opposite the Royal Square and although they were built at different times they do look quite similar. The main feature of the Khleangs are their sandstone lintels which have beautiful balustraded stone windows - inside the Khleangs looked as though they might once have had domed roofs but the buildings are in a very poor state. Alongside the Khleangs are a series of 12 towers - Prasat Suor Prat - these towers have been renovated to some degree although a few are only staying upright with the help of wooden supports.

Banteay Srei.
The complex is around 30 kms from Siem Reap but it's well worth the visit as the drive takes you through some really nice countryside. The entrance fee is included in the main ticket price so don't forget your ticket!. Founded by Hindu preists in the late 10th century Banteay Srei (or the Citadel of Women) is not a Royal Palace or Temple and is quite small in comparison to the more famous Angkor sites.


Surrounded by a moat Banteay Srei has small shrines dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva and it's small pink sandstone buildings are beautifully carved with Indian Gods and Godessess - the latter are dressed in Indian style skirts with lavish jewellery.

Preah Neak Pean. Also known as the Coiled Serpents Preah Neak Pean dates from the late 12th Century and was built by Jayavarman VII - and is dedicated to Buddhism. In the centre of the main pool (which is now mostly dry) is a circular island with a stepped laterite shrine and two intertwined serpents encircle the base.
The pond represents a mythical lake (Anavetapta) which is thought to be the source of the four great rivers of the world each of which are represented by four Gargoyle heads.

Preah Khan. (Temple of the Sacred Sword).
Preah Khan was founded by Jayavarman VII as a monastery and religious college. It was also the temporary capitol whilst Angkor Thom was being restored. At over 141 acres Preah Khan is a large complex which is surrounded by a 3km long laterite wall. One of the monastery's main highlights is the Hall of Dancers where there are exquisite bas-reliefs lining the wall and don't miss the Temple of the 4 Faces - named after the carvings on the central tower. Similar to Ta Prohm, Preach Khan has many giant trees whose roots have crept all over and sometimes through the walls.

Ta Som.
Built towards the end of the 12th century for King Jayavarman VII (who dedicated it to his father Dharanindravarman II) Ta Som is a small Khmer Temple with just one shrine built on it's one level - the temple area is surrounded by laterite walls which in turn are surrounded by a moat. One of the two entrance gates (or gopura) has been overgrown by a giant fig tree and there are giant faces carved into these gates.

East Mebon. Constructed in the 10th century during the reign of King Rajendravarman the Khmer Temple of East Mebon was dedicated to Shiva and sits at the centre of an artificial island in the dry East Baray reservoir. The temple has two enclosing walls and there are three tiers with the top tier containing a central tower which is in turn surrounded by four smaller towers. Apart from some good carvings on door lintels there some really good scluptures to look at at East Mebon including huge stone elephants, various religius scenes including one of Indra sat on his three headed elephant and of Shiva sat astride the sacred bull Nandi.

Baksei Charnkrong - Pyramid Temple.
Constructed in the first part of the 10th Century at the foot of Central Mountain (Phnom Bakheng), the Pyramid Temple - correct name is Baksei Charnkrong) - is unique amongst the many temples in the vicinity. It is somewhat hidden and easily missed by many tourists - it's located on the road between Anchor Wat and Angkor Thom - around 500 metres on the left before the bridge and South Gate entrance to Angkor Thom. Baksei Charnkrong was built around 908 AD - in 948 AD King Rajendravarman had a Sanskrit text engraved on its door jamb - the inscription is quite unique amongst the 1300+ known inscriptions from ancient Cambodian times and relates to the succession of Khmer Kings including pre-Angkor Ian.

Please also take a look at our Phnom Penh Travel and Holiday Guide and Siem Reap Holiday Guide.

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