Several weeks before we were due to fly out to Goa, India for our
two week holiday in the sun we thought it would be
nice to include a trip out into the Indian jungle. We found a place called Hornbill
which is located at a village called Ambeli around 20km from Dandeli
in Karnataka State, India - and decided to book ourselves several
days out there.
On offer were various "jungle" orientated trips including some hiking, trips into
the deep Indian
jungle to try and spot tigers, crocodiles, leopards as well
as the myriad of birds native to the area plus options for other
excursions.
Getting to Dandeli from Vasco da Gama is a little
involved - there is a train available which does the 4 hour trip
several times a week - this gets you as far as Londa (it cost us
around 5 UK Pounds each to get a roomy sleeper compartment). From
here you have to take a taxi to the City of Dandeli and then
continue out through jungle/countryside for another 18kms or so to reach the
adventure park at Ambeli.
Our original return to Goa was planned to be by
train as well but the time timetable got changed and so
we had to get a taxi all the way - this cost around 30 UK Pounds for the 180km
trip. Of interest and perhaps to indicate how the Dandeli area is
real Indian jungle, the taxi driver took a co-driver with him so that he
had company on the long return trip.
This was mainly because the roads in
the jungle are dangerous at night with the constant possibility of
leopards, wild elephants and wild boar being around so if they had to stop for any reason
for instance a puncture one of them could be the look-out for any dangerous animals. The driver said
every time he had driven along this road he had seen at least one and sometimes more of the
above animals somewhere along it.
Currently trains from Vasco-da-Gama run on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays leaving approximately 07.00; they return from Londa Junction on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at around 14.30. If you wish you can buy general tickets 3 days in advance at Vasco station for about 1 UKstg and then pay the extra on the train depending where you sit. The times/days given above should be checked with the Indian Railway website since they are liable to change of course.
As mentioned we stayed at Hornbill - a glorious spot with the fast flowing River Kali only yards away from our wooden cabin - it would be and therefore was easy to laze about sitting on the veranda watching the river - and enjoy the kingfishers catching and eating fish whilst hornbills and other birds were busily going about their business.
No alarm clocks are needed at Hornbill - the monkeys arrived quite early to noisily play chase on the roof whilst the hornbills flew in to have a good quarrel in the trees - at least the squirrels were reasonably quiet
Described below are the various trips we did with costs - plus a few photos
White Water Rafting - 20 UKstg each. We were
taken a few KMs to a clearing alongside the River Kali so we
could do a
little cruising on the water. Firstly we had to sign a disclaimer and then we were kitted out with lifejackets and helmet etc. and got onto
our raft. There were three rafts going on our trip - each had a
qualified instructor plus another instructor was out on the river in a
kayak. We were given around 45 minutes of safety instructions - this
also involved us having to jump into the river and be "rescued" and have
to "rescue" other raft crew. Then we were off to our first of five
rapids - the whole trip down the River Kali took abut 75 minutes but it
was really exciting and we all survived it.
Trek in the Jungle - 5 UKstg each. This was simply a morning walk which took us high up into the jungle mostly on a narrow path and then dropped down a little to a huge lake and the Dam.
Along the way we saw quite a few different birds, all manner of trees and shrubs but no animals were to be seen. Our guide told us that there were plenty of animals around (and told us what to do if such appeared) including snakes, leopards and wild boar but they did not show themselves sadly.
Syntheri Rocks - 5 UKstg each. Our
Syntheri rocks trip was really interesting - we went to them by jeep
late afternoon and walked the many steps down through heavy forest to
the river Kaneri and the beautiful rocks and cliff face.
The rocks
comprise of monolithic granite and have been carved into caves and
crevices by the strong river current - there are lots birds around plus
bats occupying the caves. As the evening drew in the whole area was quite
magical and we spent an hour or so sat on the rocks watching the busy
river and simply enjoying the peace and quiet. It
was a pretty hot and
humid climb back up to where our jeep was parked however so we stopped
off at a small jungle cafe on the way back for a welcome cup of tea.
The guides at Hornbill are really good and try hard to find us as much
wildlife as possible - after our cup of tea and although not planned/on
our itinerary we diverted into the jungle and back onto the tracks again for another go at
wildlife spotting for an hour or so.
Crocodile Spotting - 5 UKstg each. Although we had seen crocodiles in a wildlife park
we wanted to try to see them in the real wild i.e. on a river bank. This
trip took us back to the outskirts of Dandeli and the banks of the River
Kali where a local villager said he could probably find us a croc or two. A little way
along the river bank we soon
spotted several small crocodiles but we were probably too noisy and they
quickly disappeared into the undergrowth. However shortly afterwards just
across the river on a mud bank we saw a 13 to 14 foot crocodile sprawled
on a mud bank apparently asleep.It eventually opened it's eyes
and then did a half yawn so we could clearly see it's massive mouth and
impressive teeth. A few minutes later it got fed up with us and went into
the water - the speed at which this huge crocodile moved was really
impressive - the huge reptile was into the water in a split second despite
it's bulk. We sort of wondered (...) if it would continue heading across the river towards us but our
local Indian villager said not - that it had headed off down river out of the way.
However he was high up on the river bank whilst we were on the water's
edge so we sort of meandered up the bank (as fast as we could) just in
case....
Evening Jungle Safari - 7.5 Ukstg each. One of
the things we really wanted to do whilst in India was go into a real
jungle and also hopefully see tigers and leopards etc. - this trip took us by jeep
into the jungle to try and spot them.
The trip started a little before dusk and we spent hours slowly driving
along jungle trails and tracks - once darkness fell the guides were
trying to spot the animals using powerful spotlights (to pick up the
animal's eyes amongst the often dense jungle). Sadly apart from some
antelope and a few monkeys we did not spot any cats - apparently there
are only 9 tigers in this extensive protected zone at the
moment although the park authorities are planning to bring in another 25 tigers
soon.
In the end we therefore
returned back to Hornbill cat-less but the experience was pretty good
nevertheless. The evening ended with us sat round a big log fire drinking
some beer, eating various curry dishes and having a good chat. (My son
said that probably several leopards were also sat around watching us
watching the fire thinking about their next meal...).
We did find that the evenings got surprisingly cool and needed warm
clothing - something to remember to take if you go out there.
The Indian City of Dandeli.
Dandeli is quite a busy place especially around it's main street with
loads of people about plus taxis, jeeps, scooters, lorries and bicycles
etc. flying around seemingly everywhere - but it is a very interesting
place to wander around since there just seems to be something going on
- hard to explain really.
The gorgeous River Kali goes through Dandeli city with various tributaries connecting - one of
these was where we spotted our crocodiles with the help of a local guide.
Our other Pages about India can be found via our Goa Main Page
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